If your skills are dialed-in and you have a rifle capable of MOA accuracy or better, there is only one crucial component remaining, before you can execute a successful shot on a distant deer. Your hunting rifle ammunition–in some ways an even more important choice than your rifle–must be up to the task. So, what ammunition should you select for your next backcountry excursion? Read on for a list, as well as the qualities that make these particular cartridges extraordinarily capable.
Let’s start in a slightly unconventional spot for long-range projectiles, with the monolithic Barnes TSX bullet. I first came across it back in its old Remington HTP loading, as the favored projectile of my favorite deer rifle. Unfortunately, with the demise and subsequent restructuring of Big Green, the HTP is no longer in current production (though I am hopeful for the future). Federal, however, has resurrected its much-venerated Barnes TSX load, and I have found it to be a more-than-solid replacement for my old, green-boxed friend. As the exclusive ammunition used on hunts by Outdoor SolutionsFrom Field to Table program, which particularly favors Federal’s Terminal Ascent cartridge, the brand knows a thing or two about making quality ammo that performs at distance.
The TSX is a monolithic bullet of a solid-copper design, a longtime favorite of dangerous-game hunters the world over. This is due to the fact that, being of a uniform construction, almost 100-percent of the bullet’s weight is retained upon impact, for a devastating amount of muscle slicing and bone-busting penetration on even the hardest targets. For expansion, the bullet is hollow-pointed to mushroom to a large diameter, particularly at closer ranges where velocity remains high.
From a precision standpoint, a grooved shank improves accuracy, while simultaneously reducing barrel fouling. At distances beyond 400 yards, where velocity drops, monolithics will be slightly less accurate than a standard lead-core projectile, as lead is a denser material that better maintains its velocity. Copper-jacketed lead bullets, being softer, also tend to better mold themselves to the shape of the barrel, for another slight boost in accuracy. In hunting terms, however, this difference is negligible. If you’re looking for a hard-hitting round capable of taking big-game at medium- to long-ranges, the Barnes TSX is a great way to go.
Next comes Hornady Precision Hunter. Every rifle will have its own favorite brand and grain weight of hunting rifle ammunition, but when I put several brands against each other, quite often Hornady Precision Hunter comes out on top of the heap.
This is due in no small part to the fact that the round is quite literally the hunting version of Hornady’s famed competition ammo, Hornady Match. Unlike its paper-punching counterpart, however, Precision Hunter is fitted with an ELD-X bullet, which allows the round to retain ballistic efficiency, while adding the terminal performance a standard ELD round lacks. The X, after all, stands for eXpansion, and the ballistics offered by the ELD’s non-deforming Heat-Shield Tip and secant-ogive, boattail-profile remain.
From 0-400 yards, the bullet is designed to continually expand upon impact, while a thick jacket and InterLock ring keep the core and jacket fused for better weight retention (up to 60 percent). Beyond 400 yards, where velocity begins to dip, the specialized Heat Shield tip drives rearward into the bullet to initiate expansion, while simultaneously retaining up to 90-percent of its weight. Translation? Deep penetration with a large cavity.
Finally, the powder used in Precision Hunter burns clean and is loaded uniformly, so you can be sure that the round you fire at your quarry is about as close to the round you zeroed with as is physically possible (this side of a handload). For just about any sort of category of game short of dangerous, there is likely a Precision Hunter round to fit your needs.
Another great choice is Sierra GameChanger ammunition. Much like Precision Hunter, and most any long-range hunting projectile, the GameChanger utilizes a boat-tail profile for a high ballistic coefficient that slips swiftly through the air and bucks wind well. GameChanger also utilizes a polymer tip, settled over a hollow point, for swift expansion upon impact. Penetration is maintained throughout a variety of ranges thanks to a thick copper jacket around the bullet’s lead core. For a long-range hunt, this is another fine choice.
As always of course, this is simply a starting point. From newer offerings like Remington Core-Lokt Tipped and the previously mentioned Federal Terminal Ascent, to longtime fall favorites like Winchester Super X, there are quite a few hunting rifle ammunition offerings on the market. Take a few to the range and see how they stack up. Once you find out what your rifle likes best, you’ll be far more confident with hair in the scope this fall. Happy hunting!
If you read our article on hunting rifles for beginners, it may have left you wondering what other sorts of rifle types are out there. After all, most everyone is familiar with the ubiquitous bolt-action and the classic lever-gun, but wouldn’t it be nice to have a complete list of rifle types? Read on for such a lineup, in alphabetical order.
Bolt-Action
Standard
Thanks to an accident of the alphabet, we start here with the familiar bolt gun. Utilizing an action actuated by a bolt and handle, the bolt action seats a round when the bolt is driven forward, after which pushing the bolt down locks the action into place. Once fired, the bolt is unlocked by lifting, then pulling the handle rearward to eject the spent shell. The process can be repeated until the magazine is empty. Bolt handles come in a variety of different throw angles (the distance which you must rotate the handle to unlock the bolt)—60- and 90-degrees are popular options. As a general rule of thumb, the shorter the throw angle, the quicker you can run the bolt, the quicker your follow up shot, hence why companies like Benelli use 60-degree throws on their premier hunting rifles (in Benelli’s case, the Lupo).
Standard bolt-actions come in a wide variety of subsets. Some utilize push-feed actions, which strip the cartridge off the top of the magazine to seat into the action. Others utilize controlled-round feed, which locks the round into a claw-style extractor as the bolt is pushed forward. As far as feeding is concerned, some feed from detachable box magazines, while others utilize fixed, hinged-floorplate variants, and still others can be single-shots. Safeties can be standard two-position or three-position variants (the latter has an option to lock the bolt in place), which can be mounted on the tang, the trigger guard, or even the bolt head. Some bolts cock when opened, others cock on close, etc. ad infinitum. Despite this multitude of minute differences, however, bolt-actions all run about the same way. Lift the bolt, pull it back, push it forward, lock it down, and you’re ready to go.
Straight-Pull
Does the above procedure seem a little too complicated to you? Want to shave off a few fractions of a second on your follow-up shot? If so, the straight-pull bolt-action is for you. Unlike its traditional sibling, the straight-pull locks and unlocks without manipulating the bolt handle up and down, but simply by sweeping it back and slamming it home.
This is accomplished in different ways by different companies. Savage’s new Impulse utilizes the Hexlock system, a series of six ball bearings which lock the bolt into place in a barrel extension when closed. Other systems, like the classic Blaser R8, utilize a radial locking system. There are even more out there, but the main characteristic, of course, is the operation of the action. Pull out, push in, and fire.
Break-Action
Break-action rifle types are among the simplest designs on the market, and tend to skew either to its high or low end. Many exquisite double-barreled dangerous-game rifles are of a break action design, as are many small rimfires. Break-actions are actuated by a lever either on or near the tang of the rifle, which hinges the barrel(s) forward to reveal the chamber(s). Cartridges are then placed into the chamber(s) manually, and the gun closed to seal the chamber and cock the gun. After firing, the action is broken back open, which either fully ejects or extracts the spent shells, based on the design.
Falling-Block
Incredibly accurate and durable, falling blocks can be found in such famed firearms as the Sharps rifle (Quigley down under, anyone?), and the fine Ruger No. 1. Its design is as simple as it is effective. A block rides in tracks cut into the breech, and is actuated by a lever that generally doubles as a trigger guard. Dropping the lever opens the chamber, after which a cartridge can be fed in by hand. Lifting the lever raises the block, sealing the chamber tight–so tight, in fact, that this is the design often used in artillery, and other high-pressure weapon systems. To unload, the rifle is generally equipped with extractors rather than ejectors, necessitating the removal of spent shells by hand. Cocking the hammer is accomplished manually by pulling it back.
Fully Automatic
This is a hunting page, meaning you likely are not reading this article to get informed on full-autos. That said, it is technically a type of rifle, so I feel obligated to include it here, lest people forget about this pinnacle of firearm technology.
A fully automatic firearm is, essentially, a gun which allows the bolt to continue cycling and firing for as long as the trigger remains pulled, until your magazine runs out of ammunition (one technical exception to this is guns offering a “three-shot burst”). How it does this is barely different in principle to how a semi-automatic works, which I have written about in some detail down below. The only primary difference is between closed- and open-bolt fire.
A closed-bolt design will chamber and fire a round exactly like its semi-automatic sibling: the primer is struck by a firing pin, actuated by a hammer. The only difference is that a device (generally some sort of sear) will allow the hammer to release again as the bolt or bolt-carrier moves forward, firing the next round. An open-bolt full-auto, on the other hand, simply uses the force of the bolt driving forward to ignite the primer–the firing pin will thus often be attached directly to the bolt.
Lever-Action
If you really need an explanation here, you may have not watched enough Westerns as a child. Lever-action rifle types are those stylish guns you often see hanging off horses in saddle bags, or in the hands of men with 10-gallon hats. They are operated via the lever riding below the receiver, and are widely favored for their quick-running actions, delivering fast and accurate follow-up shots. The downstroke of the lever ejects the spent shell in the chamber and cocks the hammer, while driving it back up chambers a fresh cartridge.
Magazines are almost always tubular, though some companies equip the guns with detachable- or fixed-box magazines, as these can help the rifle chamber more efficient styles of ammunition. For traditional tube-magazine-fed lever guns, some are fed through the top of the tube via a removable inner sleeve, while others utilize a side-gate loading mechanism. Some rifles even have both. Safeties are not traditionally affixed to these sorts of firearms, though some now come with the feature.
Muzzleloading
Let me start this section with a warning, to ensure no one runs afoul of local game seasons. All muzzleloaders that sport rifled barrels are rifles, but not all rifles are muzzleloaders. A muzzleloader is defined as a gun in which propellant (powder) and projectile are both loaded from the muzzle The powder is first measured and poured into the chamber, after which the bullet is driven home by a ramrod. Some more modern designs like the Traditions Nitrofire only load the projectile down the barrel and feed propellant from the breech, but as some states do not consider this a true muzzleloader, I will stick to the stricter definition.
Ignition is accomplished via either a #209 shotgun-style primer or a large-rifle primer for inline muzzleloaders, in which the primer is seated in front a bolt face in the breech. For more classic designs, called sidelocks, ignition can be achieved by #10 percussion caps, musket caps, #209s, or even a flint stone struck against a frizzen. That last option is worthy of an article in and of itself.
Pump-Action
While mostly relegated to shotguns in modern times, pump-action rifles were all the rage back in the day, and you may stumble across a classic Remington 760 Gamemaster at some point. Instead of a handle running the bolt back and cycling the action, the bolt is connected to a mobile fore-end by one or two action bars, along which the fore-end can be moved, or “pumped.” Doing so ejects a spent shell casing, chambers another one and cocks the gun.
Pump-actions have mostly fallen out of favor these days due to the strength needed for a locking mechanism to handle modern chamber pressures, as it would make the pump almost unworkable without massive effort. That said, there are still companies making them for older, classic deer chamberings like .30-30 Winchester. As with most every rifle-type on this list, there are a variety of ways the gun can be fed and made safe, but the action remains roughly the same across all pump guns.
Rolling-Block
One of the first actions designed to withstand modern smokeless powders, the rolling-block is an incredibly strong system. The breech is sealed by a block that rotates in place on a pin, and is locked in place by a hammer, hence the name. While a durable design, the rolling block is limited mostly to slow, single-shot applications, thumb-cocked by a hammer and is thus generally only found on vintage or reproduction guns.
Semi-Automatic
Semi-automatic rifle types, plainly put, are rifles that do not need to be manually cocked for every shot. Firing a round initiates the ejection of its case, the chambering of a new round, and the cocking of its hammer. It will do this every time the trigger is pulled, until the gun runs out of ammunition. If you thought having two types of bolt-actions was excessive, you’d better hang on tight, as semi-automatics can be blowback operated, recoil operated, gas operated, or even piston driven.
Blowback Operation
Generally constrained to pistols, blowback operation utilizes the rearward force of the propellant from the cartridge to move the bolt back, ejecting the spent casing and chambering a new one. This is a relatively weak force, hence why it is generally limited to pistols, but it is sometimes used on small rimfire rifles.
Recoil Operation
Another type of operation no longer commonly found on rifles, recoil operation utilizes the force of the recoil to work the action. In a long-recoiling system, the barrel and breechblock stay locked together throughout the process, meaning the barrel retracts with every shot. A short-recoil system, on the other hand, only has the barrel move a tiny distance, with the breechblock traveling alone for the majority of the cycle. Nowadays, recoil operation is generally found on shotguns and pistols, the glaring exception being heavy machine guns like the M2-HB.
Gas Operation
The most common way to cycle a semi-automatic firearm, gas systems channel the gas from a fired projectile out a small hole (generally in the barrel), and use the pressure it creates to cycle the bolt. The piston-driven design–best known in the AK-47 platform–is a cleaner-running variant of this, as it uses gas to press on a piston, which is attached to the bolt by a rod, to cycle the action. It is cleaner since gas is not routed to the bolt, from there escaping directly into the action, but requires more moving parts, and thus is slightly more complicated.
BONUS: Revolver
You’re probably wondering if your author has lost his mind, or understands the proper definition of a rifle. As it turns out, only one of the above is true. Revolvers were once in vogue both as pistols and rifles, particularly for cavalry troopers, though misfiring problems have relegated them to reside only in history books, and as careful reproductions. Nonetheless, you may one day stumble across a six-shooting long-gun, so its existence merits inclusion. That said, I’d certainly not recommend it for your next hunt. They have a nasty reputation for firing several shots simultaneously, right when you least expect it.
In a recent piece, we discussed choosing your first hunting rifle, gave a few examples, and discussed the important qualities of each. That’s only half the equation, however. You’re going to need to top that new gun with some sort of optic, so what should you look for when it comes to glass? Read on for some important features, factors, and a few models to take into consideration on your quest for clarity.
Magnification
Your first consideration when choosing a hunting scope, generally, is magnification. Primarily hunting back east, and rarely see a shot past 200 yards (if that)? A standard 3X9 is probably enough to fill your needs. Looking to push the envelope? You’ll likely want to go up to 15 or 20X on the magnification. Don’t let your bottom magnification get much higher than 4X, however. There is always the possibility of a close shot, and you don’t want your lower magnification so high you have trouble finding your target quickly in your scope. This is one reason why you should not simply get the highest power scope you can find: the higher magnification the scope, generally the higher the bottom end. The higher the magnification range, the more expensive the scope.
Additionally, from a performance perspective, you actually do not want that high a magnification of scope. For an ethical hunter, your longest shot should be nowhere near as long as a competitive shooter is generally firing onto paper. As such, the additional magnification at hunting ranges will do little more than make your sight picture needlessly wobbly.
Adjustability
Do you need an adjustable scope? That depends on how far you care to go in your hunting career. For the average, backyard hunter, a lack of ballistic turrets is no real problem. If you intend on pursuing longer, more precise shots however, an ability to dial in your adjustments is a must. At even longer hunting distances, you can get away with holding for wind, provided you have a reticle marked with wind holds (another thing I would highly recommend); the ability to dial is most critical on elevation. It takes a very skilled marksman, or a real Christmas tree of a reticle, to successfully hold for windage and elevation at the same time. Translation? Get a scope with a turret/turrets.
Next, you need to determine whether you’ll be using MOA or MRAD for your calculations. While the differences between the two are worthy of their own article, in general, there is little advantage to one over the other for hunting purposes. MRAD has long been the military standard, while MOA has traditionally been used more by hunters. The important thing to keep in mind is that once you’ve decided on a system, it will be far easier to stick with it. Switching is, of course, possible, but you will have to relearn all your calculations and distances to do so.
Focal Plane
First Focal Plane (FFP), or Second Focal Plane (SFP)? The debate over which is preferable when choosing the best hunting scope is almost as bad as the caliber wars. In a nutshell, FFP magnifies from behind your reticle, which means that your crosshairs and other markings enlarge proportionally to your target, and thus your windage- and elevation-holds (subtensions) retain their accuracy. With SFP, the magnification mechanism is on the far side of your reticle, so your subtensions are only technically accurate at a certain magnification (generally the highest one). From the sound of that, you’re probably thinking: “why would anyone ever choose SFP?” As it turns out, the choice is not quite as simple as it sounds.
For starters, FFP optics tend to be more expensive than their SFP counterparts. If you’re not planning on doing extremely complicated holds and calculations (as are common in PRS matches, where FFP is now a sine qua non), the extra cost can sometimes not be worth it. Second, for an FFP reticle to work when at full magnification, it has to be incredibly tiny at its lowest power. If your hunting area has ranges that are not all that far, and you expect to do some snap shooting, this is not always an optimal state of affairs. For hunting at extreme ranges, of course, FFP is irrelevant, as you’ll be at maximum magnification anyway, and your subtensions will be accurate. In my opinion, both have their place, so do your research and determine which is best suited to your particular needs. You can learn more about their differences here.
Objective Lens
This is a simple one. The objective lens is that final number you see on a scope model (for instance, on a 3-9X40mm, 40mm is your objective lens size). The larger the objective lens, the more light is let into the scope, the better it will perform in a low-light environment, be that twilight or thick, dark woods. The smaller your lens, the less light will be let in. Additionally, the higher magnification you’re running, the more light your scope will need, which is why you tend to see objective lens size increase with higher magnification models. The downside? Larger objective lenses can be heavier and more cumbersome. For hunting optics, common objective lenses tend to be in the 30-45mm range. Take stock of your needs and find a good balance.
Models
Above are the main considerations you’ll need to take into account. Want some models to consider? Check out the list below for a couple of our favorites.
Zeiss Conquest V4
Much as with my article on hunting rifles, I am starting here with a bit of a Cadillac, but if you’re serious about hunting and long-range shooting, “buy once cry once” should be your mantra. While this is a bit of dough to drop right off the bat, it is still less than dropping a paltry amount this year, and then spending the exact same amount next year when you’ve decided you need a higher-quality optic to achieve your goals. The Zeiss Conquest V4 line is based off a 4X zoom ratio, and boasts 3-12, 4-16 and 6-24 models. Reticles are all SFP, with both illuminated and non-illuminated options available. If you’re going straight to the Conquest V4 line, I would avoid the Reticle 60 option, as it is the only reticle offered without any subtensions. Models can generally be found for between $699 and $1,299, depending on magnification and other options (adjustability, etc.).
Leupold Mark 5HD
I gave you an SFP Caddy, so I feel obligated to present a similar offering from the FFP side of the market. The Leupold Mark 5HD provides a 5X zoom ratio and FFP performance. It is available with a variety of reticles in 3.5-18X44mm, 5-25X56mm, and 7-35X56mm (I would recommend the lowest magnification model for most hunters). Turrets are all adjustable with ZeroLock technology, to ensure your dials don’t do any self-adjustment, and models can generally be found for between $1,499.99 and $3,199.99 depending on magnification level and features. If those prices seems way out of your range, Leupold also makes a Mark 3HD, with a 3X zoom ratio, while its VX line of SFP models move even further in the affordable direction.
Vortex Diamondback Tactical FFP Riflescope
For more budget performance without diving too far into the $5 bin, check out the Vortex Diamondback Riflescope. Simple, rugged and affordable, these FFP scopes come with a lifetime warranty with adjustable turrets, and have one choice each of well-marked reticles in either MOA or MRAD. Models consist of 4-16X44mm and 6-24X50mm, and can be found for between $350 and $450.
There are plenty more worthy brands and models, but these three would be an excellent place to start when choosing the best hunting scope for your needs
Your first time afield can be a daunting prospect. From how to conduct yourself and dress, to which gear to bring and which to leave at home, the experience can be as humbling as it is rewarding, revealing just how little you yet know about how to thrive in the great outdoors. Potentially the most daunting part, is deciding on a rifle. While the process can be eased by using a mentor’s firearm, you will eventually need to pull the trigger on a purchase of your own. This is a big decision, as it can represent a substantial outlay of cash, and a potential commitment to a platform and caliber. Read on for a few great options to get you started on your search for the best hunting rifles.
Benelli Lupo
I won’t lie to you, if we were to liken this process to your first car, the Benelli Lupo would be a Corvette, but hear me out. Unlike flipping your 15-year-old self the keys to a 400-horsepower monster, there are some significant benefits to starting near the top of the proverbial heap. For starters, if (like me) you prefer to minimize your overall expenditures, this is not a rifle you will ever need to graduate from. With nine different caliber options, sub-MOA accuracy, a threaded barrel, and a weight tipping the scales right around seven pounds (caliber dependant), this rifle can take you from the treestand to intense backcountry excursions, and will likely outshoot your own capabilities at any distance. Additionally, for beginner shooters, the Lupo tames recoil with a Progressive Comfort system and Combtech cheek pad, though I would recommend a smaller hunting caliber for a first rifle anyway (unless you’re jumping straight to elk). The controls are also intuitive, with an ambidextrous, tang-mounted safety, a detachable box magazine, and an adjustable trigger. The gun also comes pre-mounted with a two-piece Picatinny rail, to make mounting your first optic easy. MSRP: $1,699; www.benelliusa.com
Savage Model 110 Hunter
I should disclose upfront a small bias toward Savage Arms, as my first and most trusted hunting rifle is an old Model 111 I got a deal on at the local auction house. I say small, however, as my large predilection for the company’s firearms is due in larger part to the incredible accuracy and dependability I have seen out of their guns over the years. The company’s Model 110 line is about as storied as a hunting rifle can get and encompasses guns from basic utilitarian models, all the way up to ultralight backcountry bruisers. The Model 110 Hunter is a great place to start. With the company’s adjustable AccuFit system, tunable AccuTrigger, and an AccuStock rail that secures the action along its entire length, the gun is a solid performer that can grow with you as your skills improve. Additionally, the tang-mounted safety and detachable box magazine will get you used to the ergonomics of other Model 110s when you’re ready to step up your game to a more lightweight or game-specific variant. MSRP: $849; www.savagearms.com
Ruger American Standard Rifle
Ruger’s primary offering to hunters, the American rifle, also comes in a variety of different trims, each with its own specific features. For a beginner’s hunting rifle, however? The American Standard will serve your purposes just fine in your quest for the best hunting rifles. Available in seven common calibers, the Ruger American Standard weighs in between six and six-and-a-half pounds, with a 22-inch barrel for good accuracy results. An alloy-steel receiver and a black-synthetic stock mean this gun can take all the abuse a beginner can give it, and keep on ticking. The Marksman trigger is adjustable between 3 and 5 pounds, the magazine is detachable, and a soft rubber buttpad is included for recoil reduction. To make the gun safe, ergonomic tang safety provides easy access at a moment’s notice. MSRP: $579; www.ruger.com
While I don’t think any roundup of the best hunting rifles for beginners is complete without the inclusion of a lever gun, I must make one caveat. If you ever intend on getting into longer-range precision shooting, or longer-distance hunting, your first gun should be a bolt-action. While I appreciate the appeal of a good old lever gun as much as the next red-blooded American, the fact of the matter is that with modern loadings and cartridges, a bolt-action is almost always going to be the best bang for your buck, and you should get familiar with how to run one right off the bat. Please note, however, that I said “almost.”
If you have a true need to go the lever-action route, and you don’t plan on pushing the distances all that far, Henry’s Long Ranger has found a way to allow the classic design to run with modern calibers, making for an excellent and well-rounded hunting gun. Coming chambered in .223 Remington, .243 Winchester, .308 Winchester, or 6.5 Creedmoor, this lever action comes with a detachable box magazine instead of the ubiquitous tube, which allows it to run the aforementioned cartridges. Weighing in at seven pounds empty, this gun is right around the weights of the other rifles on this list, despite some truly beautiful American Walnut furniture. A round, blued-steel barrel meshes nicely with a hard-anodized black receiver, which is drilled and tapped for scope mounts. While I’d consider mounting a scope essential for any hunter, it does come with a standard set of irons. Using a high set of rings, you could even witness your irons underneath the scope–this is a favorite setup of Eastern hardwoods deer hunters. MSRP: $1,195; www.henryusa.com
Whether a beginner or an experienced hand, if there’s one thing that unites us deer hunters, it’s the desire to be a more effective predator. From blown stalks to wasted sits, there’s nothing that stings quite so badly as an unfilled tag. So whether your goal is to drop more deer for the freezer, or to take out a specific target buck, read on for some deer-hunting tips and tricks that will make you more deadly in the field. Today, we’re going to focus on the intricacies of scrapes.
What’s a Scrape?
If you’ve been in the field a time or two, or have sought the advice of an experienced hunter, you likely know to target scrapes for deer of both sexes, but primarily bucks. Scrapes are most commonly identified by finding a scal a clearing of dirt, generally beneath a torn up stick referred to as a “licking stick.” This is where bucks have worked themselves into a bit of a frenzy marking their territory, by chewing up a storm on the overhanging stick, then pushing the leaves aside and urinating down the scent glands on their rear legs into the exposed dirt to mark their territory. Thing is, while this means a buck has been there, it doesn’t necessarily mean he’ll come back–there are several different types of scapes.
So What Does it Mean?
If you just found the scrape at a random point in the woods it’s better than nothing–at least it indicates a deer is in the area, but don’t get too excited. Bucks often make scrapes while cruising, and there is no guarantee he’ll be back. If you find it on the edge of a field, powerline cut, or roadway however, you may be in luck. This is a boundary scrape, and bucks will often hit them as they mark the edges of their territory. Unfortunately though, these are often made at night, and are therefore little help to hunters. What they can be handy for, is looking for tracks, which you can often use to size your deer. More on that in a future installment. Finally, there are primary scrapes. These are your target, and are often found along ridgelines, and generally are between bedding and feeding areas. If you don’t know where the latter are, you can often tell by looking at the scrapes themselves–primary scapes will commonly be laid in a line, some 50-odd yards apart from each other. A buck will hit these fairly often, and this should be a high-opportunity area to hunt. There’s a good deer-hunting tip for ya.
What if There are None?
Another great tactic, particularly if you can’t find a primary scrape? Make a mock one of your own. Find a low-overhanging branch, and use a stick to scrape the leaves away from underneath. Then pour a little buck lure onto it, to make the local bruiser think an intruder is encroaching on his territory. He’ll be curious to find out who it may be. Little hillbilly tip for you? When you’re out of buck lure/urine, I sometimes improvise with my own. There are hunters who will berate you for this, saying bucks will smell human and avoid the area. As for myself, however, I’ve watched bucks stick their noses into scrapes exactly so freshened–I do not think they have enough contact with human urine to expressly recognize it, and it seems to at least make them curious enough to come in for a look. As with so many things in the deer woods, however, to each their own.
Three final things on scrapes. First, freshening a preexisting scrape with buck lure can be a rewarding tactic if there are already scrapes in the area. Second, while a little rarer, does can also make scrapes to indicate they are in heat. As a result, I will often make an occasional scrape with in-estrus doe urine. Never hurts to let bucks know there are fertile females in the area. Finally, a scrape dripper can be a useful tool to establish a more permanent scrape than your human schedule of work and responsibilities likely allows. Hang it up higher than a licking branch, and it will periodically drip urine onto a scrape for as many as several weeks, depending on atmospheric conditions. This can also be an excellent way to keep scrapes freshened while limiting human scent anywhere in the nearby area.
There’s more to learn about scrapes, but that knowledge won’t be found on the faux-ink of a webpage. Get on out there, scout, hunt, and find out for yourselves! If you do feel the need for more hand-on deer hunting tips though–as always–check out the fine folks at Outdoor Solutions. I may ply my trade writing “how-to’s,” but even I know nothing beats the hands-on, tailor-made instruction a hunting mentor can provide.
If there is a single type of rifle that has permanently endeared itself to American hunters, it is the bolt-action. While this may sound like elementary knowledge nowadays, it once was far from a foregone conclusion. In Europe, the lightning-quick straight-pull bolt-action is king, thanks to the popularity of driven hunts–particularly for boar. In 19th-century and early 20th-century America, the lever-action reigned supreme, thanks to its balance of speed and capacity, not to mention its efficiency with the commonly used powders and projectiles of the day. For the current century, however, bolt-actions provide the most effective combination of strength of action, speed of follow up, and capacity easily brought into line with modern hunting regulations. To see why, let’s take a closer look at bolt-action rifle anatomy.
Platforms
While the modern hunter will most commonly encounter bolt-actions mounted on a traditional wood or synthetic stock, bolt-actions are versatile enough to be found on a wide variety of shooting platforms. More precision- and competition-minded folks tend to run bolt-actions mounted to highly adjustable chassis–with adjustments for everything from length of pull to drop at comb. On the other end of the spectrum, those concerned with a diminutive package and looking to shave some pounds will utilize bolt-action pistols, like the new Savage 110 PCS. How it’s mounted has little to do with the action itself, of course. I merely mention it to show how well the design has proliferated through the gamut of firearm platforms.
Receiver
Dating from 1824, bolt-action anatomy remains incredibly true to its initial design, improvements mostly reflecting adaptations to changing cartridge technology, or machining processes. The first piece of note is the receiver. Generally constructed from some sort of aluminum, steel, or stainless steel, this is the overarching metal “bucket” where all the functions occur–cartridges are fed in from the magazine, peeled off the top by the bolt and slammed home into the chamber.
Bolt
The action itself, then, is manipulated primarily by the bolt. For the purpose of this article, we will be focusing on rotating-bolt designs, as opposed to the straight-pull mentioned in our introductory paragraph. The bolt consists of a metal tube, which houses both a firing mechanism and a locking system. The firing mechanism consists of a spring-loaded firing pin (which touches off the primer of a cartridge), while the locking mechanism is made up of a varying amount of lugs, which lock into slots in the receiver for a firm hold. Though it sounds simple, note should be made that this locking system is exactly what has given the bolt-action such an advantage with modern hunters and shooters. When the bolt is turned, locking the lugs into place, the lockup is significantly stronger than on–for example–a lever action, allowing it to handle heavier chamber pressures, and thus stronger loads. The bolt is actuated by a bolt handle, which protrudes to the side. It is lifted to unlock the lugs and pulled rearward to clear the action, then moved forward to chamber a round and pushed down to re-lock the lugs.
Feeding Styles
As the bolt locks the cartridge in place in the chamber, it is also responsible for the other processes of the action–loading, extraction, and ejection. Here we begin to see some differences between designs. The vast majority of rifles on the market are termed “push-feed.” Cheaper to produce than their counterparts, and boasting a higher accuracy potential, push-feed actions catch the next cartridge as the bolt moves forward, and push it into place in the chamber. This helps accuracy, as it allows the cartridge to center itself *slightly* better, lessening the effect of the minute disparities between cases. Where it’s less efficient, though, is in reliability. Since the cartridges are sliding into place relatively unassisted, failures to feed (FTF) and double feeds are marginally more common.
For the most reliable feeding, with a small hit to accuracy, shooters tend toward “controlled-round-feed.” These sorts of rifles are particularly prized by dangerous-game hunters. Instead of simply pushing the next round into place, controlled round feed latches onto the base of the cartridge with the extractor claw before stripping it from the magazine. This (in theory, anyway) eliminates the possibility of a double feed, and most common FTF issues.
These two types of action necessarily extract and eject differently as well. While most push feeds utilize a spring-loaded plunger on the breech (bolt) face, to spring the spent casing free as soon as it clears the ejection port, controlled round feeds use a fixed mechanical ejector attached to the receiver, to sling the spent casing free at a fixed point. This is due to the ejector gripping the round as soon as it is stripped from the magazine, rather than only when it is driven into the chamber. While there are many more intricacies between the two, this should suffice for a fundamental explanation.
Cocking and Firing
The other responsibilities of a bolt are cocking the action, and releasing the firing pin. Cocking is accomplished either upon opening or closing the bolt, when a lug actuated by the rotation of the bolt compresses the firing pin spring. Once compressed, the pin is held in place by a sear. Releasing the spring tension is accomplished by the pulling of the trigger, which actuates the sear away from the pin, allowing the firing pin to translate its potential energy into kinetic. Again, this is a bit of an oversimplification, and different varieties of the above process abound, but for basic bolt-action anatomy, it will suffice.
Outside of this, the bolt-action looks incredibly similar to other rifle designs. The magazine (most commonly a detachable-box or hinged-floorplate unit) feeds rounds into the action, which moves them to the chamber. From the chamber, bullets are propelled down the barrel, and are spun to stability by the rifling within it. The action can be made safe by an either two- or three-position safety, which can do everything from disengaging the trigger, to blocking the sear, to blocking the firing pin, to locking the entire bolt, depending on model.
Bolt-action anatomy, while representing only a small fraction of firearm design, is nonetheless a broad topic in and of itself. With the information above, you will hopefully have a firmer understanding of what’s going on inside your rifle, next time you rack that bolt and pull the trigger.
